Your Ultimate Guide to the Most British of the French Resorts: Le Touquet-Paris-Plage
Once a playground for the elite, the resort is now brimming with new energy. Explore its eccentric history, sandy beaches, and exciting activities—perfect for a short break or a longer holiday.
Alongside this article, we're publishing an award-winning (awarded by my daughters) episode of our immersive podcast dedicated to Le Touquet. You can listen to it below or on your favourite Podcast app. Just search for Travel Plans with Fernando Pinho. Seriously, it’s really good!
Hey there 👋🏻
I'm thrilled to be back in the pilot's seat, ready to fly you away to a beach resort that is truly close to my heart.
Imagine this: it's the roaring twenties, and you're rubbing shoulders with British high society, renowned artists and even royalty. Where's everyone travelling for their summer holidays? Le Touquet-Paris-Plage, of course!
Now, unless you're a fellow pilot (more on that in a bit), chances are this charming coastal town isn’t on your radar.
But fear not—in this newsletter and podcast episode, we're taking a virtual trip to France for a weekend filled with beaches, sports, music, rollercoasters—and, of course, glamour!
Le Touquet has this wonderful way of blending relaxation and excitement, making it perfect for families of all ages. In fact, my own crew has spent the last two summers there, and let's just say we've fallen head over heels.
So, grab your virtual passport, and let's explore this captivating destination together!
Getting to Le Touquet: A Breeze for Road-Trippers, Train Enthusiasts, and Aviators Alike
Nestled in northern France, just a hop, skip, and a jump from Calais, Le Touquet is surprisingly easy to reach.
If you're cruising over from the UK, simply point your car towards Dover, and once you cross the Channel, you’re practically there! Parking in town is easy, with plenty of car parking available. Also, all the hotels we'll be mentioning offer convenient parking.
If you prefer the scenic route, hop on the Eurostar and make a quick change at Lille to Etaple-Le Touquet. The whole journey should take you about three hours. Sites like Trainline make planning a breeze.
Now, if you’re a pilot, I bet you've already touched down in Le Touquet. It's practically a rite of passage! The airport is so popular with British aviators that it was recently renamed Le Touquet Elisabeth II International Airport1 (yes, I was surprised, too).
Le Touquet's airport truly stands out as a premier General Aviation destination. With border force and customs on-site, your arrival is hassle-free. Plus, there's car and bike rental, along with public transport options, so you can easily explore the area.
And the best part? The beach and town centre are just a short two-mile hop away.
Flying in is straightforward, and the new airport website has most of the nitty-gritty details. Upon arrival, you'll be greeted by a friendly team and Marcus, the airport's adorable Golden Retriever mascot.
Now, here's the funny thing: as a pilot, I thought I knew Le Touquet from my quick daily visits. But last year, I realised I'd barely scratched the surface.
That's why I'm excited to share this newsletter with you, so you can truly appreciate the magic of this region.
From High Society to Hidden Haven: The History of Le Touquet
Before we touch down, let me share some of the captivating history of this seaside haven.
Imagine this - it's the late 19th century, and a Parisian lawyer, Alphonse Daloz, dreams of creating a luxurious retreat to rival Deauville, luring the Parisian elite to this very spot. Hence the name "Paris Plage" - Paris' beach.
Then, in 1902, an ambitious English businessman, Sir John Whitley, enters the scene. He buys the entire town, envisioning Le Touquet as a playground for the English elite. He goes all-in, building lavish hotels, a racecourse, a golf course and even casinos – a forbidden fruit in England at the time.
And his gamble pays off! The resort, affectionately dubbed "London by the Sea", becomes a beloved haunt for the British upper class. Royalty, Winston Churchill, and even creative minds like Noel Coward and Ian Fleming flock to its shores.
There's even an hour-long flight connecting Croydon Airport in south London to Le Touquet. If you are wondering where Croydon Aiport is, it’s long gone, but it is a great museum today.
But then, the Second World War casts a devastating shadow. In 1940, 40,000 German soldiers occupy Le Touquet.
In a strategic twist in 1944, the British, aiming to mislead German forces about the D-Day landing site, target Le Touquet. Over four days, they drop 2,000 bombs, tragically destroying the town they had helped build.
As if this wasn’t enough, the retreating German forces leave behind a deadly legacy: over 100,000 mines. Clearing Le Touquet of these explosives takes a gruelling three years.
Yet, Le Touquet proves its resilience. The town is rebuilt, and today it maintains strong ties with Britain. That's why, although we'll be landing in France, the airport was recently renamed International Airport Le Touquet Elisabeth II.
If you are interested in finding out more about Le Touquet’s history, I highly recommend this 1968 Yorkshire Television documentary. You can watch an extract above.
Arriving in Town: A Forest Welcome
As soon as you leave the airport (I highly recommend grabbing a bike and this map), you'll find yourself enveloped by a lush pine forest. In fact, two-thirds of Le Touquet is covered in these majestic trees.
It all started back in 1837 when the visionary lawyer we mentioned earlier, purchased a vast expanse of dunes. To stabilize them, he embarked on a massive tree-planting project.
Today, this enchanting forest is dotted with charming villas and crisscrossed by 28 kilometres of protected bike lanes. It's the perfect way to experience the town's natural beauty.
After a short ride, we arrive at one of Le Touquet's architectural gems: the grand Le Westminster Hotel.
This hotel isn't just one of the most beautiful buildings in town; it's a survivor, standing tall since 1924, even through the Second World War.
It's even rumoured that its timeless elegance served as inspiration for Ian Fleming's James Bond novels, and years later, the legendary Sean Connery himself put pen to paper, signing his iconic 007 contract right here within these very walls - probably with a glass of martini, shaken, not stirred!
Le Touquet Express: Making the Most of a Few Hours
Just past the Le Westminster Hotel, we step into the heart of Le Touquet's historic centre. It's a delightful blend of architectural styles: a touch of Belle Époque grandeur, a dash of Art Deco elegance, and a sprinkle of laid-back seaside charm (sometimes a bit too laid-back, if you ask me).
If you're only in town for a few hours, this is the perfect spot to make the most of your time. It's packed with the most interesting landmarks and attractions, all within easy walking distance.
So, lace up your shoes (or hop back on that bike!) because we're about to embark on a whirlwind tour of Le Touquet's highlights, designed for those with limited time.
With a leisurely lunch break, this stroll should take you about three hours, leaving you with a taste of the town's unique character and plenty of reasons to come back for more. Oh, and if you need a map of the highlights, here’s one.
The Tennis Club and Palais de Congrés
Our first stop is the impressive Tennis Club, which opened its doors in 1903. This place is massive—it has 26 tennis courts (five indoors), a 900-seat central court, a swimming pool, and three football pitches. Anyone, including yourself, can rent a court or access the swimming pool.
Just across the road, you'll find the Palais de Congrès. This building has a fascinating history, starting as a casino in 1913. Back in its heyday, it was the most extravagant casino in Europe! These days, it's a versatile venue hosting a wide array of events, from music concerts to theatrical performances.
The Hermitage Hotel and Avenue du Verger
Next up is the Hermitage Hotel, a true testament to Le Touquet's glamorous past. Built in 1910, it was once the most sought-after hotel in town. Its architecture is a sight to behold. Sadly, the hotel has been converted into private residences, so venturing inside would be considered trespassing!
As we continue our walk, we reach the bustling Avenue du Verger. These Art Deco shops, constructed in 1927, once housed the world's most prestigious luxury brands. Today, they've been transformed into cafes and restaurants, perfect for a quick coffee break or a leisurely lunch.
The Lighthouse and La Village Suisse
Now, let's turn our attention to the Lighthouse, a listed monument that stands as a beacon of hope. Before the Second World War, there were two lighthouses here, but sadly, they were destroyed in the bombings.
In 1951, a new lighthouse was built, offering a breathtaking panorama of Le Touquet. If you're up for the challenge of climbing the 274 steps to the top (no lift, I'm afraid!), you'll be rewarded with a stunning 360-degree view that's worth every step.
Just a short distance away, you'll stumble upon Le Village Suisse, a quirky collection of houses built in an unusual blend of medieval and Swiss chalet styles. This charming enclave once marked the entrance to Le Touquet, and its unique architecture will spark your curiosity.
Ypres Garden, Saint Jeanne d'Arc Church and The Town Hall
As we continue our tour, we'll come across the tranquil Ypres Garden, a true oasis in the heart of town. This garden holds a special significance, named after a time when Le Touquet welcomed thousands of Belgian refugees during the First World War.
Next, we'll admire the Saint Jeanne D'Arc church, built in 1911. Its stunning collection of stained glass windows depicting the story of Joan of Arc is a must-see for any visitor.
Just across from the church, you'll find the Town Hall. This listed building is quite a sight! Its unique blend of architectural styles, impressive size, and intricate details are certain to catch your eye.
The Market and The Post Office
Right by the Town Hall, you'll stumble upon the Indoor Market, another listed building easily recognised by its distinctive shape and arches.
It’s open on Thursdays and Saturdays but if you're visiting during the summer, you're in luck, as the market is also open on Mondays. Hundreds of vendors set up their stalls in the streets, creating a lively atmosphere and selling just about everything under the sun... well, almost everything.
Just by the bustling market, you'll find the Post Office, a fine Art Deco building that's a listed monument. If it’s open, please step inside. It’s quite beautiful. Let's just hope your letters don't get tempted to take a vacation here, too!
Au Chat Bleu and the Beach
Next, we'll indulge our sweet tooth at Au Chat Bleu. This charming chocolate shop was opened in 1912 by two sisters who had a passion for cats and chocolate. Today, it's one of the most renowned chocolate shops in France.
And finally, we'll end our tour by the beach, where we can admire the iconic beach cabins. Built in 1960, these colourful structures are full of character, just like the locals themselves!
And that concludes our whirlwind tour! I hope you enjoyed this quick glimpse of Le Touquet's historic centre. If you're short on time, this walk offers a fantastic introduction to the town.
But if you have a day or two to spare, you're in for a real treat!
Embracing Nature: Le Touquet's Magnificent Beach and Beyond
If there's one thing that defines Le Touquet, it's its sprawling beach.
Stretching for 11 kilometres, this vast expanse of fine sand is a sight to behold. Walk along the shoreline, feel the soft sand between your toes, and listen to the soothing sound of the waves.
But the beach isn't just for relaxing. It's also a playground for those seeking adventure. Whether it's swimming, sunbathing, kite surfing, or building sandcastles, there's something for everyone.
You'll also find beach clubs with activities for children and cafes for a refreshing drink or a meal with a view.
A Dog's Paradise
Oh, and one more thing – if you have dogs, be sure to bring them along to Le Touquet! While I can't officially confirm it, I have a strong suspicion that all the dogs in town have a secret pact to meet up on the southern part of the beach in the early mornings and late afternoons. You'll see them playing in the sand, chasing each other, and generally having the time of their lives! It's a sight that's sure to bring a smile to your face.
Exploring Canche Bay Nature Park: A Sanctuary for Wildlife
Venture north along the beach, and you'll soon find yourself at the entrance to the Canche Bay Nature Park. This sanctuary covers over 45 hectares of protected land, providing a haven for a diverse array of wildlife.
As you walk or cycle along the network of nature trails, the invigorating sea breeze mingles with the earthy scent of the forest.
You'll likely encounter locals enjoying the park's natural beauty, whether they're jogging, cycling, or even horseback riding through the forest and dunes.
But the true highlight of the park is the view. Head to the watersports centre or one of the observation points and prepare to be captivated. The panoramic vista of the bay, especially at sunset, is breathtaking. Keep an eye out for seals basking on the sandbanks – a truly magical sight!
Birdwatchers will be in their element here as thousands of birds migrate through the area. Be sure to bring your binoculars for a chance to witness this natural spectacle.
It's a truly special place to unwind and appreciate the wonders of nature. And if you're feeling peckish, don't miss La Base Nord, one of my favourite restaurants in town, conveniently located by the watersports centre.
Watersports Wonderland
Speaking of the Watersports Centre, Le Touquet is the place to be for outdoor enthusiasts. In fact, it's so renowned for its sporting scene that the English Rugby team chose the town as their base for the 2023 Rugby World Cup.
Watersports, in particular, play a massive role in Le Touquet's identity. The town has two watersports centres that attract everyone from curious beginners to seasoned enthusiasts all year round.
Located at the southern end of the beach, the Bertrand Lambert Manche Watersports Centre, also known as La Base Sud, specialises in the sport of sand yachting.
One of the most iconic images of Le Touquet's beach is the sight of sand yachts zipping across the sand. These wind-powered vehicles resemble sailboats on wheels and can reach incredible speeds of over 90 kilometres per hour! Everyone who's tried sand yachting raves about the adrenaline rush, claiming it's an experience that's impossible to forget.
You can book a 2-hour discovery session to get a taste of the action. That's exactly what I did, but as luck would have it, the wind wasn't particularly cooperative that day. If the wind is less than 10 knots, your session may not be able to go ahead.
If you're curious to learn more about this exciting sport, be sure to check out our podcast episode dedicated to Le Touquet.
If you prefer a different aquatic adventure, you can also try introductory paddleboarding, surfing, or kitesurfing sessions.
Now, if you want to learn how to sail or simply rent out a kayak, canoe, paddleboard, pedalo, catamaran, sailing dinghy or windsurf board, the Canche Bay Watersports Centre will have what you need. On my bucket list (for next year) is a trial lesson in jet surfing!
From there, you can also take a 45-minute river cruise around the estuary.
Beyond the Beach: Le Touquet's Equestrian and Golfing Highlights
Back in the roaring twenties, even the Prince of Wales himself would fly over to Le Touquet to indulge in a round of golf and a thrilling game of polo.
Today, horses and golf remain deeply intertwined with Le Touquet's identity.
The renowned Equestrian Park is considered one of the finest equestrian centres in France. The first thing you'll notice is its welcoming and inclusive atmosphere. The facilities are open to everyone, so feel free to spend a day here simply soaking up the equestrian vibes.
The centre's 50 hectares offer an impressive range of amenities, including indoor and outdoor arenas, 80 stables, competition arenas, a race track, a cafe and restaurant, and a hotel.
If you're visiting with little ones, they'll be thrilled with the 30-minute pony rides. And for experienced riders, there are daily group rides to the beach and surrounding natural parks, with over 45 km of dedicated horse riding trails to explore.
The Equestrian Park also hosts major events, like the annual International Showjumping Competition. The springtime highlight attracts top riders and 500 horses from 20 countries.
The Equestrian Park exemplifies Le Touquet's passion for the outdoors and its commitment to providing world-class facilities. And that passion extends to the greens as well.
Let's tee off at the golf courses!
Tee Off in Style
As soon as you see Le Touquet's town emblem – a caddy – you'll know golf holds a special place here.
Le Touquet Golf Resort isn't just visually stunning; it's been ranked as the 20th best in Europe. The complex has thrived for over 115 years, a testament to its enduring appeal and success.
The courses are framed by trees and dunes, providing a picturesque backdrop for every swing. You have three options: an 18-hole course winding through the pine forest, a 9-hole course perfect for a quicker round, and a practice course to sharpen your skills.
On-site, you'll find a welcoming clubhouse with a restaurant open to the public, a cafe, and a hotel for those seeking a full golfing getaway.
Thrill Seekers Unite: Parc Bagatelle Awaits!
If you're travelling with little ones, a visit to the beach followed by an ice cream and a ride on the charming wooden carousel might be just the ticket.
But if you're craving a bit more excitement, or if your kids are looking for a thrill, then get ready for a fun-filled adventure!
Just 5 miles outside Le Touquet lies Parc Bagatelle, a theme park that promises a day of laughter and excitement. Although, in my experience, those rollercoasters also produced plenty of screams, too!
Don't worry about getting there – even if you don't have a car, there's a convenient bus service2, or you can always hop in a taxi3.
For less than 30 euros per person or 100 euros for the whole family, you'll have unlimited access to over 50 attractions and shows, including thrilling rollercoasters, refreshing water rides, and even a charming little farm where you can interact with friendly animals.
Now, don't get me wrong, the carousel is lovely, but Parc Bagatelle takes fun to a whole new level. And for the price, it's an absolute bargain.
So, if you're looking for one last hurrah before heading home, consider checking out Parc Bagatelle. It's a fantastic way to finish your Le Touquet adventure with a bang!
Le Touquet by Night
After a day filled with outdoor activities and sporting adventures, it's time to experience a different side of Le Touquet.
When the sun goes down, Le Touquet doesn't slow down – it just gets a whole new vibe! Nightclubs, restaurants, and casinos come alive, lighting up the streets and creating a buzzing atmosphere around Rue St Jean.
If, like me, you're into music, you're in for a treat. Throughout the year, there are many festivals and events to enjoy, including summer and winter jazz festivals, as well as opera, theatre, and ballet performances.
The big one, the one everyone talks about, is the Le Touquet Beach Music Festival in August. It's a massive party on the beach, drawing in crowds from all over France for a weekend of sun, sand and dance music.
So before you head to Le Touquet, make sure to check the local events agenda. You never know what exciting events you might stumble upon!
Checking In: My Honest Hotel Reviews
A century ago, Le Touquet offered some of the most prestigious hotels in the world. A few of these grand establishments have adapted to modern times and still stand today.
Over the years, I've had the pleasure of experiencing a variety of them, and today, I'm sharing my honest opinion of a few options. All suggestions below are pet-friendly (for a fee).
Luxury & Legacy: The Westminster Hotel
Remember that magnificent Le Westminster Hotel we admired earlier? If a sea view isn't a top priority and you're looking to splurge a little, this is an excellent choice. Imagine spacious rooms, impeccable service, and an overall luxurious experience. They even have a complimentary kids' club, offering a welcome respite for parents. Just a heads up – I find their cancellation policy a bit too strict, so double-check the details before booking.4
Budget-Friendly & Convenient: The ibis Hotel
At the other end of the spectrum is the ibis Hotel, conveniently near the airport. It's a budget-friendly option that surprises you with its quality. The rooms are a decent size, and they have a charming outdoor bar serving up cocktails, pizzas, and salads. Plus, you can cancel up to 24 hours before your arrival. The only minor drawback is its location, which is a couple of miles from the town centre. I actually prefer this, as the tranquillity of being nestled in the forest is very appealing to me.
If you like the location, here’s an interesting fact: there are three different hotels in the same complex—ibis, Novotel, and Tribe. All offer different levels of service and amenities.
A Family Favorite: Beachfront Bliss
At the southernmost tip of Le Touquet, nestled among the dunes, you'll find Novotel Thalassa. This unique, bunker-like structure perched directly on the sand may not look like your typical seaside hotel, but trust me, it has a lot to offer.
The location is unbeatable – you're literally steps away from the beach, with nothing but endless ocean views in front of you.
Inside, the rooms are designed to showcase those breathtaking vistas, featuring floor-to-ceiling windows that bathe the space in natural light. It's like waking up to a picture-perfect postcard every morning!
And there's more. The hotel offers a beautiful indoor saltwater pool, perfect for a refreshing dip regardless of the weather outside. There's also a spa where you can enjoy a rejuvenating massage or treatment.
The entire building exudes an airy and bright atmosphere. It's as if they've captured the essence of sunshine and the sea and infused it into every corner.
Restaurants - where the locals eat and my recommendations
During my time in Le Touquet, I made it a point to ask locals about their go-to dining spots.
A few names consistently popped up: Le Paris Plage, known for its warm and inviting atmosphere; La Petit Charlotte, a charming bistro; La Taverne Royale, a lively (and busy) Art Deco gathering place; and Jeans' Cafe, a casual favourite. If you are looking for seafood and fish, Le Perard is the most famous restaurant in Le Touquet. These are all conveniently located around Rue St Jean, so expect a bit of hustle and bustle.
For those seeking a truly exceptional dining experience, Le Pavillon at Le Westminster Hotel boasts a prestigious Michelin star.
Now, let's move on to my personal favourites. To be honest, all of the suggestions below are, in my opinion, better than the most popular restaurants I mentioned above. Having said that, I'm no food critic, just an accidental adventurer with a passion for delicious discoveries.
La Base Nord: This restaurant holds a special place in my family's heart (and mouth). Nestled within the Canche Bay Natural Park, Base Nord boasts the most stunning views in town, paired with a fantastic atmosphere and a yummy menu.
Le Jardin: Located across from the Palais de Congrès, this restaurant offers impeccable service and an exquisite menu. Even when full, Le Jardin maintains a tranquil atmosphere, making it perfect for a special occasion. It doesn’t surprise me it's consistently ranked among Le Touquet's top-rated restaurants.
La Nonna: Craving authentic Italian cuisine? Look no further than La Nonna. Tucked away within the Tennis Club, this (literally) hidden restaurant serves up the best Italian fare in town. The relaxed atmosphere, with views of the historic tennis courts, adds a unique charm to the dining experience. It's a delightful surprise and a must-visit for any pasta lover!
These are just a few of my personal recommendations, but please do venture off the beaten path and explore Le Touquet's diverse culinary scene. There are so many restaurants available and you never know what delicious surprises await!
Au Revoir, Le Touquet!
Once a beloved playground for the British elite and royalty, Le Touquet has blossomed into a destination that's got something for everyone.
In this newsletter, we've explored what makes Le Touquet so special. From its fascinating history and stunning natural landscapes to its lively culture and fun activities, this charming town, with its unique blend of British and French vibes, is a winner no matter how long you stay.
I'm heading back home with a suitcase full of memories, a heart full of sunshine and some tan lines.
For me, Le Touquet is a happy place. One where I can truly unwind and recharge.
Seriously, if I still believed in Santa, I'd be dropping some major hints about a summer house here!
But for now, it's Au Revoir. Keep exploring and happy travels!
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Extras for Travel Plans+ subscribers: Beautiful Downloadable Travel Guide
A beautifully designed and downloadable PDF Travel Guide with all the details of this adventure is also available to Travel Plans+ subscribers (from 20th February)