Dungeness - The Healing Power of a Nuclear Landscape
Some call it a paradise, others a desert. It's loved by many and a place that will leave you wondering, "How on earth did this place come to be?"
If you can, I highly recommend listening to the podcast episode before reading on. Sound is an integral part of Dungeness's character. The wind, the waves, the haunting silence – they all contribute to the atmosphere of this extraordinary place. It's an aural journey that will transport you to the heart of this enigmatic landscape. You can listen to it below or find it on your favourite podcast app by searching for "Travel Plans with Fernando Pinho."
Hey There 👋
For our first Travel Plans deep dive of 2025, I'm excited to share a truly unique destination with you: Dungeness.
Of all the places I've visited, Dungeness stands apart. It looks like a desert. It has no shops, hotels, or facilities designed for tourists. And yet, it attracts over one million people every year.
Dungeness has a distinct character, an almost palpable sense of history and mystery. There's also this incredible sense of peace there—a quiet solitude like you're at the very edge of the world. It's a place where you can really escape the craziness of everyday life. I found myself just wanting to wander, to sit and to think.
And you know what? Even though it can look harsh at first glance, there's this amazing sense of hope there, too. Life finds a way, even in the toughest spots. You see these little wildflowers popping up between the pebbles, and it's just a reminder that even in the most challenging of environments, life just goes on.
Dungeness is a headland that extends about 3 miles into the English Channel. It's an area of special scientific interest, a bird sanctuary, and the home of two nuclear reactors.
So, today, we’re heading to the south coast of England, exploring Dungeness, and trying to answer the question of what it’s about this windswept landscape that draws so many, including myself.
Dungeness: Storms, Smugglers and Nuclear Power
Dungeness has seen it all. From Roman times to the modern day, it's like this place has witnessed some of the most dramatic chapters of human history.
Shipwrecks and Smugglers
Now, here's the thing about Dungeness: it stretches out into the sea for about three miles. And that, my friends, has caused more than a few headaches for sailors over the centuries. Trying to navigate these waters in the days before modern technology wasn’t for all.
To make matters even more perilous, just off the coast lies a notorious stretch of sandbanks known as the Goodwin Sands. They don't call it "the ship swallower" for nothing!
Over 2,000 ships are believed to have met their fate there, their hulls swallowed by the shifting sands and treacherous currents. It's like the Bermuda Triangle of England!
So, to help those poor sailors avoid disaster, the first of four lighthouses was built in 1615. It was a wooden structure, standing tall(ish… it was only 35ft). Over the years, the lighthouses were improved and updated, guiding countless ships across the area.
And because it’s so remote, Dungeness was also a favourite spot for smugglers. Brandy and tobacco, hidden amongst the shingle, were brought ashore under the cover of darkness, evading the watchful eyes of the authorities.
From Lifeboats to Nuclear Power
In the 18th century, a lifeboat station was built, and the place remained pretty much the same until the First World War when workers employed by Southern Railway purchased old carriages and set them up as beach houses.
During World War II, Dungeness played a vital contribution to the war. Perhaps the most important project was PLUTO, the pipeline under the ocean, a feat of engineering that helped fuel the liberation of Europe. I’ll tell you more about that in a moment.
But arguably, the most transformative moment in Dungeness's history was the construction in the 1960s of the first of two nuclear power plants. These imposing structures, with their stark silhouettes against the vast sky, have become synonymous with Dungeness, a symbol of both progress and controversy.
Journey to the Edge: Reaching Dungeness
Getting to Dungeness is an adventure in itself. If you're traveling by car from London, the journey takes about two and a half hours, winding through the picturesque Kent countryside. Rolling hills, charming villages, and historic landmarks dot the route, making it a delightful experience in itself.
I'd definitely recommend making a stop in the historic town of Rye. Its cobbled streets, medieval architecture, and quaint shops are a feast for the senses.
By Plane
Now, for those who prefer to take to the skies, there's good news. Lydd Airport, also known as London Ashford Airport, is just five miles from Dungeness. This general aviation friendly airport offers a convenient gateway to this remote headland.
Final Approach
However, once you land at Lydd, getting to Dungeness itself requires a bit more planning. Buses aren't frequent, and walking would take a couple of hours. My advice? Pre-book a taxi (the team at the airport has a great list of options) or, if you're feeling adventurous, bring a bicycle with you. That's what I did and it was a fantastic way to experience the landscape up close.
As you approach Dungeness, the landscape begins to transform. The lush green fields taken over by golf courses or even hundreds of sheep, give way to shimmering lakes reflecting the sky like giant mirrors.
And then there's the shingle. Miles and miles of it, stretching out as far as you can see. It's a vast, open expanse with cool freshwater pits, wet grassland, and meadows full of wildflowers.
The pits are bird heaven, with thousands of them hanging out there. The place is so important to them that the area is now a National Nature Reserve.
As you get closer to the shore, you start to see these houses dotted around the landscape. They're all spread out, each one looking like it has its own story to tell.
Dungeness: Beauty in the Unexpected
Arriving at Dungeness is like stepping into another world. It's not a seaside resort, with ice cream stands and amusement arcades. Instead, it's this vast, open expanse of shingle, stretching out as far as the eye can see. The land is so flat that you feel like you can almost touch the sky, and the wind whips through your hair, carrying the salty tang of the sea.
It's a place where you're completely exposed to the elements. You feel the earth beneath your feet, the sun (if you are lucky) on your skin, and the wind in your face. It's a raw, untamed beauty that can be both exciting and humbling.
I wouldn't exactly call Dungeness a village. It's more like a scattering of human elements across this wild landscape. You've got a few houses here, a couple of lighthouses over there, and these weathered fishing huts and abandoned boats dotted around, reminding you of the people who have braved this challenging environment.
Building anything new in Dungeness is no easy feat. The whole area is protected, so you can't just roll up with your blueprints and start building your dream beach house. Any new homes have to be built on the footprint of old and existing structures, following strict rules to preserve the character of the area.
But here's the funny thing: some of those modest dwellings have been transformed into some of the most amazing examples of modern architecture you'll ever see. It's like a bizarre mix of old and new, rustic and futuristic.
And then there's the elephant in the room: the two nuclear power stations looming in the distance. It's a stark contrast creating a scene that's both unsettling and strangely captivating.
Dungeness is remote, isolated, and exposed, yet it draws you in with its mysterious charm. It makes you wonder about the lives that have been lived here, the stories that have unfolded, and the secrets hidden beneath the shingle.
Prospect Cottage: a Battery for Life
Nestled amidst the shingle, with its vibrant yellow windows contrasting against the stark landscape, stands Prospect Cottage, the former home of the renowned film director Derek Jarman. Surrounded by one of the world’s most celebrated gardens, this cottage holds a significant place in Jarman’s life and artistic journey.
Derek Jarman bought this cottage in 1986, the same year he was diagnosed with HIV. The illness prompted him to seek refuge in Dungeness, a place where he could create and find solace.
For the next eight years, he poured his heart and soul into creating a garden around the cottage. Initially inspired by the traditional English cottage gardens of his childhood, he adapted his vision to suit the harsh environment, transforming the shingle into a canvas for his creativity.
The result is a magical blend of formality and wildness. Sculptures made from driftwood and rusted metal rise from the shingle, alongside colorful wildflowers and hardy shrubs. It's a testament to Jarman's resilience and artistic vision, finding beauty and life in this challenging landscape.
The cottage itself is a work of art, a reflection of Jarman's eclectic interests and creative spirit. The walls are adorned with his paintings and poetry, and the rooms are filled with objects that tell the story of his life and work.
And then there's the power station, looming in the distance, a reminder of the industrial world that Jarman both embraced and challenged. For him, the power station was a source of fascination and unease, representing both potential danger and visual inspiration. He likened it to the Emerald City from "The Wizard of Oz," its lights twinkling in the night sky.
This duality, the juxtaposition of myth and modernity, nature and industry, is a recurring theme in Jarman's work. He saw beauty in the unexpected, finding inspiration in both the natural world and the industrial landscape.
After Derek's death, his partner, Keith Collins, moved to the cottage and lovingly cared for the garden for 25 years until his own passing just a few years ago. Today, the cottage is managed by an arts organisation, ensuring that Jarman's legacy lives on.
Anyone can visit the garden, and you can even go inside the cottage during one of the many public open days. It's a truly special experience, and a chance to connect with Jarman's creative spirit and appreciate the unique beauty he created in this challenging environment.
In my opinion, Prospect Cottage is a must-see destination for anyone visiting Dungeness. It's a place of quiet contemplation, artistic inspiration, and a testament to the enduring power of the human spirit. It's a reminder that even in the face of adversity, we can find beauty, create meaning, and leave a lasting legacy.
Checking In: My Honest Hotel Reviews
I’m really sorry but I’ve just tricked you! There aren’t any hotels in Dungeness. But that's part of its charm. If you're looking for a unique and memorable place to stay, Dungeness has some truly extraordinary options.
I would argue that coming to Dungeness and spending a few days inside one of these places is enough to make me want to go back.
Unique Stays
In Dungeness, you can spend the night in a converted lighthouse, a coastguard lookout, or even a railway carriage. These aren't just places to sleep; they're experiences in themselves.
But Dungeness isn't just about the past. Some of the old fishermen's cottages and railway carriages left behind have been transformed into stunning examples of contemporary architecture. These modern homes blend seamlessly into the landscape while offering luxurious amenities and breathtaking views.
El Ray: A Railway Carriage Dream
A prime example is El Ray, a stunning beachfront property located right beside the power station. Imagine waking up to the sound of the waves and the sight of the sun rising over the sea, all framed by floor-to-ceiling windows. El Ray includes a private terrace, a cozy fireplace, and a striking feature that sets it apart: a 19th-century railway carriage right in the middle of the living area.
It's a truly unique and unforgettable experience, and it's yours for around £500 a night. Most designer homes in Dungeness go for anything from £500 to £1000 a night.
Budget-Friendly Accomodation and War Secrets
Dungeness caters to a variety of budgets and preferences. While high-end options like El Ray offer a luxurious experience, there are also some affordable alternatives.
Renting a room in a local home can provide a cozy and authentic experience, allowing you to connect with the local community and uncover some of Dungeness's lesser-known stories.
During World War II, Dungeness was a hub for secret military operations. The most important of these was PLUTO – the Pipeline Under The Ocean. After D-Day, a secret pipeline was laid across the English Channel to supply fuel to the Allied forces. In Dungeness, high-pressure pumping stations, cleverly disguised as bungalows, garages, and even ice cream shops, pumped over 120 million gallons of petrol to the front lines.
After the war, some of these camouflaged pumping stations were converted into homes. One of them, belonging to Lesley Taylor, is now available for rent on Airbnb. You can spend the night in this unique piece of wartime history, experiencing a blend of history and modern comfort. One double bedroom is available from aproximately £95 per night.
To learn more about the PLUTO project and Lesley Taylor's fascinating Airbnb, please listen to the podcast. Lesley shares her insights and experiences, offering a glimpse into the history and character of this unique accommodation.
Eating with a Side of History (and Freshly Caught Fish)
Eating out is a fairly easy topic when you are in Dungeness.
Depending on the day, you might only have two or three places to choose from. And if you're looking for a supermarket or shop, you'll need to head to the nearby village of Greatstone-on-Sea. But don't let that deter you. Dungeness has some culinary gems waiting to be discovered.
The Pilot
The Pilot is a true Dungeness institution. This historic pub, built with wood salvaged from a Spanish ship that sank on the beach in 1633, has been serving locals and visitors for centuries. In the 1950s, it was transformed into a modern, quirky, and comfy version of its original self, while still retaining its historic charm.
The Pilot is the heart and soul of Dungeness. It's where locals (and their dogs) gather for everything from work meetings to family celebrations, from a relaxing pint to a quick bite. The atmosphere is warm and welcoming, with friendly staff and a menu that caters to all tastes.
Snack Shack Surprise
Now, I mentioned that depending on the day, there's a third option. It's called the Snack Shack, and many swear it's the best fish restaurant in the country! By "restaurant," I mean a container placed by the road. But don't let that put you off. The fish served here is freshly caught on the day. And if the weather doesn't allow the owners to go to sea and fish, the shack doesn't open. So please check their website before you head to the beach.
The Snack Shack offers a simple but delicious menu featuring fresh fish and potatoes (they don't call them chips here), fish flatbread with a gorgeous salad, avocado, and homemade slaw.
So, if you're looking for a taste of local life and a delicious meal in a unique setting, be sure to visit The Pilot or the Snack Shack. They offer a true taste of Dungeness.
Beyond the Beach - More to Explore
When I visit Dungeness, I often find myself drawn to the simple pleasures: long walks on the beach, exploring the nature reserve, and simply soaking up the atmosphere of this unique place. It's a chance to disconnect from the hustle and bustle of everyday life and reconnect with myself and my loved ones.
Miniature Railway Adventures
But for those seeking a bit more adventure, there's the Romney, Hythe & Dymchurch Railway. This miniature railway, founded in the 1920s, is a delight for families and train enthusiasts. The steam locomotives, one-third the size of full-scale trains, chug along a 13-mile track and offer scenic views of the Dungeness landscape.
It's a journey back in time and a chance to experience the landscape from a different perspective as you pass by surrounding villages, historic landmarks, and the unique flora and fauna of the Dungeness Nature Reserve.
The Nature Reserve
Speaking of the nature reserve, it's a must-visit for any nature lover. The Dungeness National Nature Reserve offers a diverse range of habitats, from shingle beaches and freshwater pits to wet grassland and wildflower meadows. It's a paradise for birds, with the RSPB reserve offering a prime location for observing migratory birds in spring and autumn.
Is This the Most Healing Place on Earth?
Writer and journalist Farrah Storr once called Dungeness the most healing place on earth. While I can appreciate the sentiment, I also believe that the places that touch our souls and offer solace are deeply personal. What might be a source of healing for one person might not resonate with another.
That said, there's an undeniable magic to Dungeness, a unique energy that seems to seep into us and leave you feeling refreshed and revitalised. Perhaps it's the vastness of the landscape, the ever-present wind, or the beauty of the shingle. Or maybe it's the juxtaposition of nature and industry, history and modernity, that creates a space for reflection and introspection.
There, you're reminded that you're not fully in control. Life, like the ever-shifting landscape of Dungeness, is full of unexpected twists and turns, of challenges and triumphs.
Derek Jarman once said, "People steal cuttings. I encourage them." He understood that the beauty of Dungeness is meant to be shared, its energy and spirit carried beyond its shores.
I never take anything away from Dungeness, but I always leave with something more – a renewed sense of wonder, a deeper connection to nature, and a reminder that even in the most challenging environments, life finds a way to flourish.
It's a place of finding for those who believe they are lost.
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